The high-alpine hike to Coburger Hütte via the Biberwierer Scharte (2,000 m) is one of the most beautiful hikes in the Zugspitze region — it is not for nothing that the route is part of the famous Via Alpina. Our hike took place on a sunny day in November, where golden leaves still attract hikers in the valley. No one expected so much snow on the mountain, so the surprise was all the better.

Tour profile

Difficulty level: difficult
Route length: approx. 12 km (total)
ascents: 1,100 hm
descents: 1,100 hm

The idea to go hiking this weekend comes spontaneously after, after the rainy week, sunny weather is finally announced in the weather forecast. The Coburger Hütte, which has been on my wish list for a long time, is chosen as the destination. It is not so tragic that the hut has already closed for the winter. A friend likes to keep me company while hiking. And off you go.

8:30 a.m.: The days are known to get shorter and shorter in November, and the morning hours with freezing temperatures are not particularly pleasant. That is why we only start after the first morning rays of sunshine can be seen. Arriving in Biberwier (989 m above sea level), we drive as planned to the large Marienbergbahn car park. However, my friend thinks that the parking lot is too far away from the starting point. So we drive back a bit and choose a secluded parking space - on the outskirts of Biberwier, next to a mountain stream.

10:00 o'clock: The first part of our hike is through the mountain forest. At all forks, we always follow the signs to Coburger Hütte. Surrounded by golden yellow larch trees, the route is completely in shade in November, which is not even so bad on steep climbs, because you don't get sweaty quite as quickly. The forest floor is magnificently covered with fresh snow and ice crystals, and from time to time you can see small accumulations of snow hanging on mountain pines and cold stone rocks. The floor is slippery, but it's still easy to get up. In addition, the path is partly covered with gravel, so the risk of slipping is minimal. The view of the valley is gigantic; below, in the middle of the green meadows, Tyrolean villages lie in the warm rays of sunshine. We have some concerns, as the mountains behind the villages are already really snow-covered. But there is still a little snow here and we hope that it stays that way, especially when it gets sunny up there again. My buddy says we might even be able to climb Dragon Head.

11:20 o'clock: The trees are slowly becoming scarcer and we reach the forest line. Even the last mountain pines are disappearing, we are now walking through the bare rocks, and there are almost no more snow-free areas left. The trail is then completely buried in snow and we have to search for clues. There were probably still a few hikers out and about here yesterday, whose tracks can still be seen partly on the ground despite the wind and fresh snow. A little further on, the trail becomes very steep and is even secured with a rope, which, however, cannot be reached due to deep snow. We use our hiking sticks to keep fighting our way through.

12:15 p.m.: It gets very windy on the ridge, the snow is blown off here and we can walk normally again. But that's just a small change: now we reach the Biberwierer Scharte and that's where the real winter starts! We didn't expect it to be like this. The snow-enchanted high valley, crowned with the proud Ehrwalder Sonnenspitz and the Tajatörl, lies in the sun before our eyes. The fresh snow cover shimmers wonderfully in the sun's rays, the snow melts and dampens on the mountain pines, so that the fresh mountain air smells strongly of pine oils. We are looking for the occasional tracks of the other hikers again and follow them towards Coburger Hütte. Hiking in deep snow is not easy at all: With every step, we sink knee-high into the snow. Unfortunately, only a short time later we get back into the shade and it gets freezing cold right away. We are also running on the flat through steep terrain, there is a slippery slope on the left, and I have no desire to slide all the way down to Lake Seebensee on my back, even though the snow looks so fresh. Even my buddy is no longer as highly motivated: when we reach the hut, there is no longer any question of climbing the Dragon Head.

1:00 PM: The Coburger Hut is located 1,917 m above sea level on the beautiful high-alpine Drachensee, above the famous Seebensee (1,657 m), which has just not frozen over and delights us with a breathtaking panorama with the Zugspitze in the background. The hut is only open from June to early October and is completely in the shade, so we would have to eat our lunch on a bench decorated with ice crystals with a wonderful view of Dragon Lake. Just looking at it makes me freezing cold and I suggest to my buddy that we better go back and take a break up in the sun. He has no objection to that. After 30 minutes of exhausting walking time, during which our feet disappear deep into the snow and have to be laboriously pulled out again with every further step, we come to a cozy sunny clearing between mountain pine trees, where we can finally enjoy our snack on a snow-covered rock. And in good time, because the sun suddenly disappears behind the ridge after just a few minutes and never comes out again!

2:00 p.m.: For us, that means getting started as quickly as possible — not letting the melted snow freeze over on the trails again. We didn't bring any Grödel for ice cream, the descent will be difficult. In a few minutes, we'll be back on the Biberwierer Scharte and then start our way down. The first section above the tree line is pretty tough, as expected. But my new hiking boots provide a good grip and I can get down safely. It's about to get warmer in the forest, but the snow doesn't melt here at all because the sun never gets in here in winter. We slowly reach the valley via the dirt road.

4:00 p.m.: Arrived! The short day is already coming to an end and I'm taking a look back at the Biberwierer Scharte. The Sonnenspitz and the surrounding mountains are already glowing in the evening light and the gap is still in shade. Nevertheless, the hike is a great highlight off the well-known tourist routes. We only met a few other hikers along the way. Now we quickly take off our wet hiking boots and get into dry, warm shoes. The heating in the car warms us up again and we enjoy the sunset on the way back and look forward to the upcoming hot shower.

Tips & info:

• The Coburger Hütte is generally open from June to October. The cabin offers 80 beds. Detailed information on opening times and prices can be found here.
• Arriving by car: From Grainau via the B23 to Ehrwald, then turn left at the fork. In about 10 minutes you can reach Biberwier. Die Marienberg Railway is located on the outskirts of the village towards Fernpass.
• Unfortunately, there is no direct rail connection to Biberwier. In summer, however, you can rent mountain bikes or e-bikes and take the train from Untergrainau to Ehrwald. From there, it only takes 15 minutes to reach Biberwier. The return trip by bike from Ehrwald to Grainau is nice and relaxing despite the length, as it always goes downhill.
• The Seebensee It is a must-see, especially in summer, and is the easiest way to reach it from Ehrwald. If you want to save the climb, you are welcome to use the Ehrwalder-Almbahn Drive up and then follow the signs to Seebensee-Alm. The mountain railway offers plenty of free parking spaces for cars.
• The tour to Seebensee and Coburger Hütte via Ehrwald is also easy to do by mountain bike. From the Ehrwalder Alm mountain station, it only takes about 30-40 minutes up to Seebensee, and from the lake it takes about 30 minutes on foot to the Coburger Hütte (MTBs are no longer possible here). In winter, the area offers beautiful ski tours, but then the lakes freeze over.
• In the described weather conditions, only experienced mountain hikers should go on the hike. Not only is hiking in the snow extremely exhausting and you need very good shoes and hiking sticks, but sure-footedness in slippery conditions is also necessary. It's better to turn around than take unnecessary risks! Our safety tips for beginners can be found here.

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