On beautiful dry autumn days, the Alpspitze offers numerous climbing areas for outdoor fans - from small easier climbing routes for beginners to combined tours via the Alpspitz-Ferrata and demanding multi-rope routes for alpine climbers.

Tour profile

Difficulty level: Alpine climbing 3/4, Ferrata A/B
ascents: 300 hm
descents: 300 hm

The role of the Alpspitze (2,628 m) in the lives of the people of Garmisch-Partenkirchen should not be underestimated. In the entire Zugspitze massif, the Alpspitze stands out by far when you come to the Loisach Valley from Munich. Many tourists easily confuse the imposing summit with the Zugspitze, as the Zugspitze nestles behind the Alpspitze and initially appears smaller. At sunrise, the sun is the first to light up the mountain, while the Zugspitze is still in a nightshade. While the summit of the Zugspitze, Germany's highest mountain, is populated by tourists from all over the world, and even the summit cross is “easily” accessible via a small via ferrata, the Alpspitze summit is only accessible by hard climbers. As a result, “the Oibspitz” is Garmisch-Partenkirchen's local mountain in the truest sense of the word.

Both the aesthetic and sporting value of Alpspitze are remarkable. For local mountaineers, the Alpspitze and the nearby area attract local mountaineers at any time of the year. In winter, the mountain inspires skiers and ski tourers, in summer hikers and climbers. It offers access to the beautiful Reintal Valley and the enchanting Höllental Valley, and numerous huts with and without overnight accommodation are located here.

Since September always offers the best weather conditions in Werdenfelser Land, we are going on a short climbing tour on the Alpspitze today. Not much is planned: we start from the Osterfelder mountain station and climb 5 pitch up to the so-called “Herzl” until we reach the trail that leads towards Alpspitz-Ferrata, and then we simply descend over the ferrata.

10:00 a.m.: We get one of the last parking spaces in the valley and take the Alpspitze cable car up. As always, the gondola is well occupied when the weather is nice, there are many with climbing equipment and there is a large group of paragliders next to us. The climbing garden is about a 20-minute walk from the Osterfelderkopf mountain station (2,033 m). In light fog, Garmisch-Partenkirchen lies down in the valley. The morning dew has already evaporated in the soft autumn sun and the rocks are mostly dry. The air smells of tart herbs, and butterflies, flies and bees fly around in the absence of wind.

10:30 a.m.: The climbing garden is already well staffed. Because of the risk of falling rocks, it makes sense to put your helmet on your head as soon as you arrive. The topos are a bit incomprehensible and we've been looking for our climbing route for a long time. We're finally in the right place — this is the mountain rescue training route that we want to try out. We shoot both half-ropes once and my instructor is the first to go. We're taking the backpacks with us.

Unfortunately, it has to be noted that the via ferratas on the Alpspitze are usually organized in a somewhat chaotic manner. The gap between the hooks is sometimes so big that you think you've lost your way. In addition, there is a risk of falling rocks on the entire climbing wall up to the summit. In the upper area of the Alpspitze, individual stones lie very loosely on the rock surface. If the rope only moves slightly, the stones can come off and injure the successor. So be careful!

11:00: The first pitch was easy, but the second pitch is much more difficult. This time I'll have to go ahead and find the hooks myself. I focus on my feet again and again to ensure optimal pressure on the rock with my weight. Sometimes you have to get through here with pure friction because the rock is pretty smooth. At one point I can't get along anymore and crouch on the rock forever before I find a suitable solution. The last fuse is 1 meter below me and my hands get wet when I think something can go wrong. But I'm done in the end.

11:30 a.m.: Now my instructor is coming back to the front and I have to back up. After a short time, he lost his way and doesn't find a single snag anymore. A chocolate-colored butterfly seems to have liked the green rope that is on my feet. He always sits on it and enjoys the sun. Pink autumn tianas and small stone plants grow everywhere on the rocks. My instructor is now disappearing behind the big rock above. I don't know whether he has found the nearest stand or not. After all, he didn't have a single interim guarantee! He finally pulls the rope — he has reached the point. I can join you now.

12:30: The rock here consists entirely of fracture and is very dangerous. I have to move very carefully here and check every stone so that our successors don't get any loose stones. Despite my efforts, a big rock breaks off! I am loudly warning the successors. The difficult part is finally over and I can already see the situation.

13:00: Now there are only two rope lengths left until the end point. First, there is a good solid rock wall where there is no more fracture - but a few more difficult areas where I have to fight my way through. With a successful lead, my brand-new sports glasses fly downwards. Fortunately, it ends up behind a rock and can be taken away by our successors. Plastic glasses are very practical — due to their spectacular fall, my glasses only got a few small scratches! Now I'm getting closer to the latest situation.

1:30 p.m.: Done! Climbing is over for today, we shoot the ropes again and put them in our backpacks. The Alpspitz-Ferrata is only about 150 meters away from us. From here, you can also continue climbing up to the Alpspitze summit — the approximately 550 m high 15-page tour can also be completed via the Ferrata.

After a short break to quench our thirst and enjoy the view, we easily find our way and descend over the ferrata. At the bottom, we continue towards the mountain station and take the next gondola back down to the valley.

Tips & info:

• Pay attention to top times: The Alpspitze cable car, the climbing garden and the Alpspitz-Ferrata are very popular. When the weather is nice, the climbing routes are well staffed and delays on the Ferrata must be expected due to the high number of visitors.
• Risk of falling rocks: Helmet required throughout the climbing area.
• orientation: Only a few hooks, which are sometimes difficult to find.
• Please note the cable car opening times: On all-day tours, you may miss the last cable car. To get to the valley on foot, you have to count an additional 2-3 hours. The valley route leads over the Hochalm and the Kreuzalm, where you can take a nice break, and ends up at the Alpspitzbahn valley station. The lower section is a steep, slippery dirt road, which is partly on the Kandahar ski slope.
• Especially for beginners: There are climbing guides in Garmisch-Partenkirchen who can be booked and ensure greater safety. Ask at Alpenverein after.

Climbing in Zugspitzland:

• Alpspitz-Ferrata via ferrata
• Climbing forest & high ropes course in Partenkirchen
• Ehrwald climbing hall
• Frauenwasserl climbing garden (Oberammergau/Ettal)
• Sonnenplatten Scharnitz climbing garden
• Fuchsschrofen Nassereith climbing garden
• Climbing areas near Garmisch-Partenkirchen

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