A perfect day in Grainau: circular hike in the Wetterstein Mountains via Hochalm and Höllentalklamm

Today we present a popular day trip for experienced hikers, starting and finishing in Hammersbach in Grainau. On the high-altitude trails across Kreuzeck to Hochalm, then down to the Hupfleitenjoch and across Höllental, you can discover the Grainau mountains from their most beautiful sides.
Tour profile
Difficulty level: difficult
Route length: approx. 16 km
ascents: 1,400 hm
descents: 1,400 hm
7:30 a.m.: My hike today starts at the large Hammersbach hiking car park (760 m above sea level). From here, it takes about 10 minutes to get to the starting point. The first sign can be found at the Hammersbach bridge: the route “Kreuzeck über den Jägersteig”. The Jägersteig branches off to the left a short time later. The first 100 meters in altitude are quite unpleasant: steep, with partly broken wooden stairs, through which groundwater runs in all weathers. However, you will soon reach the hub that marks the border with a mountain pasture. From here, the trail becomes drier and more inviting, even though individual sections of the route will be very steep.

8:00 a.m.: The first 300 meters are over and I am now on a straight mountain road. In approx. 200 m, the Jägersteig branches off further to the right. From here, the trail meanders evenly upwards through the mountain forest in small loops until it reaches the valley station of the Längenfelderbahn. On the entire route, I only meet two hikers who are on the road ahead of me and an elderly couple, whom I overtake just before the Längenfelderbahn.

8:45 a.m.: I've finally reached the home straight and am now on the saddle on the mountain road next to Kreuzeck. From here I take the Hochalmweg, the wide road to the right towards Hochalm. It is a mountain trail for true connoisseurs: on the left you look directly into the Reintal valley, on the right is the magnificent panorama of the Ammergau Alps and at the back of the saddle are the Kreuz-Alm and the Kreuzeckbahn mountain station. The trail here goes slightly downhill, past picturesque limestone cliffs with numerous grottoes and caves. After the short climb, I then stand at 1,705 m above sea level in front of the Hochalmbahn, which has nothing to do at this time as there are no guests yet.

9:00 a.m.: The Hochalmbahn is fully automated. The greeting for hikers is now coming out of the loudspeaker and the train starts. Today, however, I don't have to go to Osterfelder, but towards Hupfleitenjoch, so I'm looking for the further ascent, which branches off the mountain road to the right above the valley station. From here, you move in high-alpine terrain: the trail becomes narrow and steep, cows graze on both sides, taste alpine flowers and (hopefully or not) enjoy the breathtaking view of the mountain meadows below the Alpspitze.

9:30 a.m.: After the small saddle, which will be the highest point of my hike at approx. 1,850 m above sea level, it goes a bit downhill. In summer heat, this section is pleasantly shaded, perfect for a short drinking break. Only 5 minutes and the trail combines here with the hiking route from Kreuzeck to Hupfleitenjoch. After a few meters of altitude difference, I meet my colleague Sonja on the Hupfleitenjoch at 1,750 m, who today partly follows the same trails next stage of the peak hiking trail Commits. Here I'm already looking forward to a short trip to Schwarzenkopf.

9:45 a.m.: The Schwarzenkopf (1,818 m above sea level) is a small wooded summit that greets the Alpspitzbahn passengers from its idyllic green valley below the Osterfelderkopf. Due to its location, the mountain offers a unique panorama that — in contrast to Alpspixx, for example — can be enjoyed in complete peace and quiet. I always wanted to climb the pretty hill, and today is finally a suitable opportunity to do so. The ascent from the Hupfleitenjoch only takes 10 to 15 minutes; after a few rocks, the narrow trail is easy to master. At the top, you will be rewarded with a magnificent panoramic view, including the Alpspitze, the Höllental, the Zugspitze, the Waxsteine, the Ammergau Alps, the Ester Mountains, the Kreuzeck and of course the entire Loisach Valley with Grainau, Garmisch-Partenkirchen and other places. The hotel on Lake Badersee is also in view, of course quite hidden in the forest. Next to the summit is the fireplace from the solstice fire that is here every year Is set on fire, - it is clearly visible from every mountain in Grainau and from the valley.

11:00 o'clock: It's pretty sunny here on the Yoch, but the air is still fresh. The forecast for today is 32 degrees in the valley. We give ourselves enough time to enjoy the view from Schwarzenkopf and from the saddle, then we descend into Höllental. Our next destination is the miners' houses. The descent is partly in shade, moderately steep and no problem at all with hiking sticks and some sure-footedness. The trail goes along a rock wall and offers beautiful views of the Höllental valley. At the bottom you can see the Stangensteig and the material ropeway from the Höllentalangerhütte. In about 40 minutes, we reach the miners' houses, where we treat ourselves to a drinking break on the sun terrace with a view of the Zugspitze. Unfortunately, the hut is out of service. Then it's on to Höllentalangerhütte, which we reach around 12:30 p.m.

12:30 p.m.: As always, the Höllentalangerhütte (1,387 m) is very well staffed, so we look for a quiet table with benches in the forest for our meal. Many hikers today find no space on the hut terrace and take a break here in the forest. Once again, it shows that it is always better to have your own food with you. Plan B, so to speak. The hut is built in a very modern way, it offers increased capacities and meets modern safety conditions. That's why the atmosphere doesn't feel completely Bavarian to me - here I sometimes have the impression of being somewhere in Yosemite. The sun shines through the spruce trees and it is slowly getting hot here too at an altitude of 1,300 m. But the plan is to go to the Höllentalklamm gorge after lunch break, and I'm already looking forward to cooling off.

1:30 p.m.: The road down to the valley is very busy. Höllental is busy today: in the wonderful summer weather, many guests want to go to the Höllentalklamm gorge, and after reaching the gorge, the Höllentalangerhütte doesn't seem that far away anymore. Many inexperienced people go hiking in huts and end up completely exhausted. Many people sit at the roadside and ask how much longer it takes to get to the hut. Unfortunately, many tourists also bring trash with them and that really upsets us. Everyone is welcome to have a picnic by the cool stream, but everyone should pack up their trash again and not leave it behind. And there are also a few masks lying around on the floor. It shouldn't be that way. So we unpack a trash bag and actually collect the trash from some incorrigible tourists. But now it goes into the gorge.

Once in the gorge, shade and cool mountain water dripping down on us surround us. The Höllentalklamm is longer and, in my opinion, more impressive than the Partnach Gorge, but the corridors are narrower and steeper. Perhaps it is also a good thing that not everyone can achieve them. But now we are curious to see whether the corona regulations will be complied with in the gorge. In particular, there is no option in Höllental to make the gorge a one-way street, as the Stangensteig, which could potentially be used for remigration, is not accessible to everyone. That's how you get really close to us in the gorge. Here, too, there are unreasonable people who don't even raise their face masks as soon as other tourists come to meet them. We cross the gorge over steps, bridges and slippery passages for about an hour until there is no trace of the previously noticeable heat.

2:30 p.m.: We reach the end of the gorge at the actual entrance hut. After we have paid the entrance fee, we stop off at the small hut. It is highly recommended, on the one hand because of the historic atmosphere and on the other hand because of the beautiful view of the valley. Perhaps also to absorb some heat again after the cool crossing of the gorge. From here, it only takes 1 hour to reach the valley. We'll make it in time before the storm clouds arrive after the hot day and it starts to thunder.

It was another perfect day in Grainau that will be remembered for a long time - with lots of sun, distinctive peaks, fresh mountain air, an impressive gorge and crystal-clear water.
Tips & info:
- parking options: You can park directly on site in the hiking car park Hammersbach P2, minimum charge €8 (up to 12 hours). Alternatively, you can park for free at the Kreuzeckbahn and climb the route from the Alpspitzbahn valley station to Kreuzeck.
- Our hotel guests can save themselves the parking fee by reaching Hammersbach from the Hotel am Badersee on foot, by Eibsee bus or with the Zugspitze cable car.
- If you are not in enough fitness for the climb, you can take the Kreuzeck cable car up and save 1,000 meters in altitude.
- The Hochalm is currently closed. Other places to stop off include Kreuz-Alm (1,600 m), the Kreuzeckhaus (1,652 m) and Alpspitze Restaurant at Osterfelderkopf (2,033 m).
- Who a stop at the Höllentalangerhütte (1,387 m), must comply with opening hours, including short-term closures. The hut is normally open at the same times as the Höllentalklamm gorge. When the weather is nice, the hut can be very full.
- Die Höllentalklamm It is usually open from the end of May to October, but may be closed at short notice due to weather conditions. Be aware of the weather conditions in Höllental before you set off. Admission prices: adults €5, DAV members €2.
- Outside opening hours from the end of May to October or when it is busy, the circular hike is also possible via Stangensteig feasible (attention: sure-footedness and a head for heights are required). When descending from Höllentalangerhütte, take the turn-off to the right just before entering the gorge.
Heartily Wellcome
at Lake Badersee
