Located at 1,866 m Schachenhaus is one of the most famous and popular mountain huts in Garmisch-Partenkirchen and also a historic place. The hut is located in the Wetterstein Mountains right next to Königshaus am Schachen and the Alpine Garden and can be reached via several mountain trails.

Tour profile

Difficulty level: difficult
Route length: approx. 30 km (total)
ascents: 1,400 hm
descents: 1,650 hm

Today we opt for the easiest option — the rise of Elmau (1,008 m). The chess house is open from June to mid-October and is always well occupied throughout the summer season, so it's best to book your overnight stay in advance.

Day 1

1:00 PM: From Garmisch-Partenkirchen, we drive towards Mittenwald and next to Klais train station — Bavaria's highest train station, by the way! — turn right from B2 across the rails. First, we follow the toll road to Elmau and park our car in the large hiking car park at the end of the road. It is definitely worth taking a look at Elmau Castle, whose historic buildings and park rise so impressively at the foot of the Wetterstein Range.

2:00 p.m.: After a short walk through the park, we return to the car park and start our hike along the forest road, which is known as the Royal Route. The wide path, which was built for horse-drawn carriages and sledges, leads comfortably through the mountain forest and is partly well shaded.

3:30 p.m.: Halfway between Elmau Castle and Schachen, at 1,464 m, is the Wettersteinalm, which was often mistaken for the Wettersteinhütte (now Kaiserschmarrn-Alm). The alpine pasture is located in a wooded basin, and the mountains open majestically upwards. Here, in addition to the breathtaking panorama, we find an excellent cheesecake as well as curious calves and piggies who love to play with children.

4:15 p.m.: After a relaxing break, we start again. The forest road makes a few steep turns above the alpine pasture, so that my 9-year-old child slowly starts to whine. However, in just under half an hour, the trail comes back to the plain and remains completely relaxed until the end of our hike. We walk very comfortably and enjoy a wonderful view of the Alpspitze and the Hochblassen on the right, with the rocks on the left being so beautifully covered with alpine roses, mountain pines and countless flowers. Cows graze in the meadows and from time to time there are small beautiful huts on the hillside — picturesque! Luckily, the weather is playing along and we don't have to hurry. We take lots of pictures and enjoy a light snack on a bench with a unique panoramic view while on the go. On the right, we notice an intersection — the Kälbersteig, which leads from Partenkirchen to Schachen.

6:30 p.m.: The chess house has been visible in the distance for some time now. We pass the valley station of the Meilerhütte supply railway and after a 10-minute climb we have reached the hut. The rustic wooden house built in 1870 looks particularly cozy in the evening light. We register at the bar and move into sleeping places at the cottage camp, which is located in the back house. Both huts were once farm buildings that belonged to the Royal Castle. There are numerous mountain bikes and two vehicles from the Forest Department next to the sleeping hut. For nature conservation reasons, the Schachenhaus does not have any showers. There are also no power outlets for guests. Today we sleep in a large dormitory on the top floor.

7:30 p.m.: Now it's time for the well-deserved dinner — all Bavarian, with liver dumpling soup and casspatzn. There is also plenty of good beer here. After dinner, I go for a short walk while the fellow hikers play card games. The air outside is getting colder — at an altitude of almost 1,900 m, the temperature difference with the valley should be around 10 degrees, with a fresh breeze blowing. It could cool down to 0 degrees overnight. The sky turns dark blue and then velvety purple. The moon shines above the Dreitorspitze and down in the valley the roads of Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

22:00 o'clock: Just as in the other mountain huts, the rule applies here too: rest after 22:00. After a successful hiking day, however, all guests love to go to bed. Everyone falls asleep shortly after.

Day 2

6:00 o'clock: Whether you want to get up so early on a Sunday isn't even up for debate this morning, as everyone wakes up at the same time and starts packing their backpacks loudly and talking. But this fits in perfectly with our plans: after breakfast I wanted to Meilerhütte (2,372 m), while my child and friends would like to visit the Royal House and the Alpine Garden. The weather is wonderful again, you can still feel the freshness of the night outside — and you definitely have to benefit from the precious morning hours.

7:15 a.m.: After breakfast, we take brief photos with the panorama of the sunny Loisach Valley with the Alpspitze and the Hochblassen on the side. Then we split up and in a few minutes I'm already at the fork above Schachen: on the left, the steep path leads up to the Meilerhütte, on the right it goes down into Reintal. I'll keep the right path for later, so I'll take the left one now.

8:00 a.m.: The sun shines mercilessly, I'm sweating and the mountains are unbelievably beautiful as always. After a steep climb, the next one comes again, now there is an abyss on both sides... In between, there is a small saddle with a cross, here then a short break. The path to the Meilerhütte is narrow and rugged, from time to time it also goes downhill and then uphill again. At the lofty height, the supply railway container floats past me. What is being delivered today? I'm sure there's a cyclist there too — he'll cool down until I get there.

9:30 a.m.: After the last steep stretch, the Meilerhütte, the second-highest mountain hut in Germany, finally appears before me. It is located very close to the Dreitorspitzgatterl, i.e. below the Dreitorspitze, on the border between Bavaria and Tyrol. I am always amazed how the massive stone house could be built here in the harsh environment. The hut has 81 beds and can be reached from Elmau, Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Leutasch (Austria) via various trails and via ferratas. You can spend the night here even in winter — in the Alte Meilerhütte. I briefly enjoy the view of the Loisach Valley and treat myself to a cyclist. Then it goes straight down, as I still have a long way to go today.

11:30 a.m.: The descent to Schachen is difficult and takes almost as long as the ascent. After the short break, it's on — into the Reintal Valley. According to our previously agreed plan, I meet my friends and daughter again at the Kochelbergalm, where I should walk across the Reintal Valley, where they would come back to Elmau and pick up the car. So go ahead and prepare for the long descent.

12:00 o'clock: Anyone standing at the top of Schachen and looking down into the Reintal Valley has only one thought: How incredibly beautiful the Alps are! During the steep 2.5-hour descent, the magnificent green valley with the sky blue Partnach in the middle comes ever closer.

2:30 p.m.: The descent of a total of 1,400 meters in altitude unfortunately damaged my knee. When I finally land near the Bockhütte on the valley floor, every step hurts. I desperately sit on the shore and stick my strained feet and legs down to my knee in the icy blue water. The cold also hurts, but revives the body. Now I am somewhat fit again and can continue my hike.

15:00 o'clock: I follow the path towards Partnachklamm and at the fork I take the signposted road to the left to Partnachalm. Although the road goes uphill and makes a few curves that make the route longer, it is much quieter than the usual route across the Partnach Gorge. But I don't know the way forward. My cell phone has already run out of battery, so I can no longer check my route and have to rely on advice from an oncoming hiker. On the way I pass the private tabernacle and at the next fork, which looks a bit misleading, I take the unsignposted path with a closed barrier to the right — instead of following the sign “Hausberg” uphill to the left. Was it the right way? The forest road is lonely and quiet, the birds whistle in the countryside. After some time, however, the Partnachalm actually arrives — a beautiful hut with Bavarian air paintings and a terrace with a wonderful view of the Wetterstein Mountains and the Schachen. At the bottom, the Partnach Gorge rushes day and night. I'm taking a short coffee break here.

5:15 p.m.: The short pleasant route from Partnachalm to Kochelbergalm would be rather relaxing if I wasn't so exhausted. The trail slowly descends through the forest and mountain meadows with numerous Werdenfels hay huts, which are extremely photogenic by the way - it's a shame that my battery is empty. The Kochelberg is a green hill in Partenkirchen. The popular Kochelbergalm is located here on the banks of a picturesque pond. My friends and daughter haven't arrived yet. Now my hike is over — so I order a wheat beer without hesitation and dream of a shower and my bed.

Königshaus am Schachen and Alpine Garden

The Königshaus am Schachen was built in 1872 in Swiss chalet style. King Ludwig II spent his birthday here several times. The botanical alpine garden is located below the house. The Alpine Garden is a branch of the Munich Botanical Garden. An impressive collection of over 1,000 mountain plants from all over the world awaits hikers here.

Alternative ways to Schachen

For experienced hikers, there are alternative routes via the Kälbersteig and Reintal. The starting point for both hikes is the Partnach Gorge. After the gorge, you reach the fork, from which you can either walk up to the left to the Kälbersteig or right towards Reintal/Zugspitze.

The Kälbersteig It is quite steep (extremely steep, especially in the upper third), in many places you can enjoy mountain views through the forest. The walking time is 4-5 hours, from Klammende 3-3.5 hours. The entire route is wooded, i.e. well shaded. Finally, you get on the royal road, about an hour from the chess house.

The trail across the Reintal Valley, on the other hand, is completely relaxed at the beginning, with only about 300 meters of altitude over the 7 km long route, which we already wrote in our blog described had. Because of the length of the route and low altitude difference, it could be recommended to bring mountain bikes as an alternative. However, carrying bulky objects is not allowed in the Partnach Gorge, so in this case you should use the route described above via the Kochelberg, the Partnachalm and the tabernacle. You can park your mountain bike at the Bockhütte in Reintal before taking the steep climb to Schachen (towards Oberreintal/Oberreintalhütte). Depending on your fitness level, it takes about 2.5 hours from the Bockhütte to Schachen, and from Klammende about 3.5 hours.

The ascent from Leutasch (Austria) is only for experienced people and takes about 6 hours via the Meilerhütte (2,372 m): 4 hours to the Meilerhütte and then the descent to Schachen (1,866 m). Due to its high-alpine character, the tour is highly picturesque and impressive. The starting point is in Leutasch, district of Reindlau near the Hotel Hubertushof at 1,083 m. The hotel does not offer public parking spaces.

The top hiking trail

The described route is partly part of the well-known top hiking trail, which takes you 200 km and 12 stages through the picturesquely diverse landscape of the Zugspitze region. Discover the long-distance hiking trail in the Badersee blog:

The top hiking trail: All stages at a glance

tips:

• Overnight: Early booking is recommended as the tour is very popular.
• equipping: Due to changes in weather and temperature differences between mountain and valley, it is essential to bring warm clothing and rain protection.
• Einkehr Wettersteinalm: The alpine pasture is not open all season, so pay attention to opening times.
• Partnach Gorge: Check prices and opening times. You have to pay the entrance fee, even if you come from the opposite direction like me.
• mountain bike: The ascent from Elmau to Schachen is also possible as a mountain bike tour. By the way, it is not possible to charge the battery (or mobile phone battery) at the hut. If you go the route in the opposite direction, you can park your mountain bikes at the Bockhütte in Reintal and walk the further steep route on foot. Instead of the Partnachklamm gorge, you have to drive across the Partnachalm (1,050 m).
• Our blog: A perfect day in Grainau: hiking to the Bockhütte in Reintal
  

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